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  • Throttle body synchronization - Need assistance!

    I have seen a lot of information here on valve adjustments, but not a lot of detail about working with throttle bodies. It is a very long story, but in a time of high work stress, I decided to let the Stealership do my valves on my 2012 FZ1. After $1000 and 2 months, I have retained custody of the bike that miraculously now has a Code 48 fault after the expert work they did. Since they refuse to fix their work, I am doing it all over again. Long story, and not the topic for today, but a painful lesson learned. Never again!

    Sub-throttle servo motors aren't available in the states, and have to be ordered from Japan, but I found one on ebay from a salvage that supposedly came of a "perfectly running" 2009 FZ1, so I'm hoping it is, in fact good. I will replace the motor and clean all the contacts, then apply dielectric grease. It looks like I'll also need to go in and re-check all the valve clearances. With the amazing array of errors I have already found in their work, I can't trust anything they did.

    When that is done, I want to synchronize the throttle bodies. Looking at the service manual, it says to connect the synchronizer hoses to the synchronizer device. OK...
    • Which hoses are the synchronizer hoses?
      • The diagram kind of points to an area, but it's not clear as to which specific hoses they are pointing out.
      • There are two hoses with plastic connectors. One appears to go from TB #1 to #3, and the other from #2 to #4.
      • Do I break this connection and put the Carbtune connections on the (now loose) ends of these hoses? or am I looking at the wrong hoses?
    • Where are the adjustment screws?
      • From looking at TBs on ebay pictures, it looks like the adjustment screws are inside the two pairs of "tower" structures that extend back from near the bottom of the TB assembly.
      • Are these the right screws? small flat blade, right (hard to see with the TB installed)?
    Pictures would be great, if anybody has any... but any assistance would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Blue Flash; 11-12-2021, 05:14 AM.
    - Steve
    - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
    - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
    - IBA # 39318

  • #2
    Sorry man, I have no idea.

    Comment


    • #3
      OK, after perusing for quite awhile in the "reconstituted TB Sync Tutorial" thread, I found this Photo, originally from Blind Spot, and reposted by camcow.

      Thanks guys! Most of the photos in the original thread are gone, but it looks like this is the answer. It appears that my guesses were correct, but I needed to get a picture in my mind and confirmation that I was looking for the right hoses and screw locations.


      - Steve
      - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
      - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
      - IBA # 39318

      Comment


      • Blue Flash
        Blue Flash commented
        Editing a comment
        I am being told that the center screw, head facing upward, just below the vertex of the red lines in the photo, can be used to balance #2 to #3. You can see and access that screw from the top. Then you would only need to get to the lower brass screws for #1 and #4 to finish the job. That sounds easier than having to find and access screw #2!

    • #4
      Good news! Photo hosting is definitely a problem in the old threads. Glad you found this picture Steve!
      "‎Don't count the days; make the days count." Muhammad Ali

      Comment


      • #5
        I agree! I guess it was easy to just link to a photo bucket or something, but as things get moved around in the photo host libraries, deleted, or the host sites go away, a lot of information gets lost. That's tough when information on these bikes is hard to find. This site is the key to finding about anything you will ever need, but sometimes it's not trivial to find it. Dealing with Tejas Motorsports in Highlands has been an absolute disaster. I should be riding and not wrenching.

        I guess I never searched for "TB sync", but I searched for a lot of other versions... Throttle body, Throttle bodies, synchronize, etc., but I didn't ever find this one. However, I kept doing DDGo searches (vs google), and found a link on the 998cc.org forum that posted a link back to here. The link didn't work, but I got the title out of it and then found it. The "reconstituted" thread has a lot of information, but you need to read all 10+ pages. there are many corrections in there, so just taking the first answer may not have been good.

        I see a lot of talk about adjusting Cylinder 3. However, I also see that a lot of people that adjusted Cylinder 3 had issues. The manual says not to adjust Cylinder 3... use it as the baseline. If I can just connect the CarbTune to the nipples on the TBs, I don't think I'll need any additional adapters. We'll see how that goes. Bottom line is that these compressed, "bottom line" instructions from 998cc.org site appear to be consistent with what I've gleaned from the thread here:
        • Do not adjust the #3 cylinder
        • Set the idle RPM to 1200 - 1300 RPM
        • Make sure the engine is at least 170 degrees F
        • Set up fans to keep the engine temp stabilized
        • Make VERY small adjustments and wait between them. Give a small bit of throttle and let it settle after each.
        • Do not adjust the #3 cylinder
        • Get them all balanced at the 1300 RPM idle.
        • Check them at the 3000 RPM idle. Let it settle and check them again at 1300 RPM
        • Do not adjust #3 cylinder... (can't say that enough)
        • Adjustment screws are hard to reach! Hard to find in some cases.
        Additional information I've found refers to the extra screw (see comments on Post 3) that will help with the center TBs. I am also seeing that temperature changes things a lot, and that you want the bike at 170 degrees. Get it warmed up and use fans to force air to the radiator to keep it near 170 if possible.
        Last edited by Blue Flash; 11-16-2021, 05:06 AM.
        - Steve
        - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
        - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
        - IBA # 39318

        Comment


        • #6
          I now own my Gen2 for the third time, so I appreciate your investigative work on this. It should come in handy. My 2009 has moved between my son, a friend of his, and now back to me.
          "‎Don't count the days; make the days count." Muhammad Ali

          Comment


          • #7
            are you going to verify the valves are adjusted correctly first?
            05 fz1, 91 rgv250, 86 gszr750 custom, 86 gsxr1100 survivor. Cause bucket list.

            Comment


            • #8
              Originally posted by Fitty View Post
              I now own my Gen2 for the third time, so I appreciate your investigative work on this. It should come in handy. My 2009 has moved between my son, a friend of his, and now back to me.
              Back on the road! Hopefully we can get together near the gap again soon. The "curves" around here are ok... but nowhere near N GA or the Gap... or even the Birmingham area.
              - Steve
              - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
              - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
              - IBA # 39318

              Comment


              • Fitty
                Fitty commented
                Editing a comment
                I'm retired now and living back in my hometown in NE Louisiana. I still get up there once a year or so. Also go to northern Arkansas too. Some great roads up there too.

              • Blue Flash
                Blue Flash commented
                Editing a comment
                Hopefully retirement means more time to ride! Since we moved back to Texas, I just haven't been able to get out beyond local rides. I think my last bike trip was the '14 Gap Rally. Even now, the job situation isn't very amenable to trips, but it's finally getting a bit better. Arkansas is a much easier shot from here, but I haven't even made it there yet... We'll see what 2022 brings. Either AR or even a run to the hill country could be a possibility.

            • #9
              Originally posted by Bunk View Post
              are you going to verify the valves are adjusted correctly first?
              That's a good point, but yes. After all the shoddy work I've seen, I don't think I have a choice in the matter. Once the TBs are off to change out the servo, I figure I'm most of the way there anyway. I'm so glad that they took my $$$ so that I could redo all of the work that I paid for... as well as fix the problems they seem to have created. This bike was bullet-proof until they wrenched on it. It will be back to it's former glory soon...
              - Steve
              - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
              - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
              - IBA # 39318

              Comment


              • #10
                Found additional information, added in comments to the photo in Post 3
                Last edited by Blue Flash; 11-16-2021, 05:01 AM.
                - Steve
                - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
                - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
                - IBA # 39318

                Comment


                • #11
                  Got the bike back together yesterday late and did a short test ride. Running well and no codes setting. Tomorrow will be a better test... about 300 miles in the route. Valves are in spec, all codes cleared right now!

                  UPDATE: 300 miles yesterday, bike is running great, and no error codes. Another ride set up for tomorrow!
                  Last edited by Blue Flash; 11-27-2021, 02:04 PM.
                  - Steve
                  - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
                  - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
                  - IBA # 39318

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Great news!
                    "‎Don't count the days; make the days count." Muhammad Ali

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Originally posted by Blue Flash View Post
                      I agree! I guess it was easy to just link to a photo bucket or something, but as things get moved around in the photo host libraries, deleted, or the host sites go away, a lot of information gets lost. That's tough when information on these bikes is hard to find. This site is the key to finding about anything you will ever need, but sometimes it's not trivial to find it. Dealing with Tejas Motorsports in Highlands has been an absolute disaster. I should be riding and not wrenching.

                      I guess I never searched for "TB sync", but I searched for a lot of other versions... Throttle body, Throttle bodies, synchronize, etc., but I didn't ever find this one. However, I kept doing DDGo searches (vs google), and found a link on the 998cc.org forum that posted a link back to here. The link didn't work, but I got the title out of it and then found it. The "reconstituted" thread has a lot of information, but you need to read all 10+ pages. there are many corrections in there, so just taking the first answer may not have been good.

                      I see a lot of talk about adjusting Cylinder 3. However, I also see that a lot of people that adjusted Cylinder 3 had issues. The manual says not to adjust Cylinder 3... use it as the baseline. If I can just connect the CarbTune to the nipples on the TBs, I don't think I'll need any additional adapters. We'll see how that goes. Bottom line is that these compressed, "bottom line" instructions from 998cc.org site appear to be consistent with what I've gleaned from the thread here:
                      • Do not adjust the #3 cylinder
                      • Set the idle RPM to 1200 - 1300 RPM
                      • Make sure the engine is at least 170 degrees F
                      • Set up fans to keep the engine temp stabilized
                      • Make VERY small adjustments and wait between them. Give a small bit of throttle and let it settle after each.
                      • Do not adjust the #3 cylinder
                      • Get them all balanced at the 1300 RPM idle.
                      • Check them at the 3000 RPM idle. Let it settle and check them again at 1300 RPM
                      • Do not adjust #3 cylinder... (can't say that enough)
                      • Adjustment screws are hard to reach! Hard to find in some cases.
                      Additional information I've found refers to the extra screw (see comments on Post 3) that will help with the center TBs. I am also seeing that temperature changes things a lot, and that you want the bike at 170 degrees. Get it warmed up and use fans to force air to the radiator to keep it near 170 if possible.
                      Do not touch this screw, it is set at the factory and should NOT be used for the TB sync. The 4 brass screws are the only ones that should be used. It also states this in the shop manual. I can explain why if anyone is interested.

                      Also, clean your TBs before the sync. Spray some Throttle body cleaner through the bypass ports and throttle plates. It will make your sync much easier to balance.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        Originally posted by 9Lives View Post

                        Do not touch this screw, it is set at the factory and should NOT be used for the TB sync. The 4 brass screws are the only ones that should be used. It also states this in the shop manual. I can explain why if anyone is interested.

                        Also, clean your TBs before the sync. Spray some Throttle body cleaner through the bypass ports and throttle plates. It will make your sync much easier to balance.
                        Thanks! I haven't done the sync yet, but I appreciate the info. I won't touch that one. Just 1, 2, 4. I'll have to take a closer look at the manual as well... While I had them out, I did put masking tape "flags" on the sync hoses, with the cylinder #s annotated for later reference.
                        - Steve
                        - Pearl White 2012 FZ1. PCV, Yoshi TRC Slip on, Corbin Seat, Fuel Line mod
                        - Embroidered FZ1 key fob - a priceless gift from Sammax... the Greatest friend ever... RIP, buddy!
                        - IBA # 39318

                        Comment

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