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  • What is this?

    So I drained the coolant and I am not the original owner so do not know if it's the OEM coolant that came with the bike new.
    It's a 2001 with 34K, I bought it with 17K.

    It was still fairly green and I flushed it out with vinegar and distilled water, started the bike and drained.

    Repeated one more time with just distilled water.

    Questions
    When I start the bike and rap the throttle every now and then how can you tell if the thermostat opens? I ran it for about 4 -5 minutes.

    Looking inside the radiator I can see tiny
    silver specs like metalflake around the inside of the radiator cap area as well as the jugs with the used coolant.

    Is this normal, it has me concerned.

    I still do not have the hoses yet and have not removed any and left the bike with the radiator cap off and the drain plug open is this OK or am I inviting it to corrosion?

    Thanks
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    “Everytime I start thinkin’ the world is all bad, then I start seeing some people out having a good time on motorcycles and it makes me take another look.”

    Steve McQueen--On Any Sunday

  • #2
    When both the top and bottom large hoses get hot, the thermostat is open. The flakes are not normal, Not sure what they are, possibly the PO put some sort of stop leak in it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by 9Lives View Post
      When both the top and bottom large hoses get hot, the thermostat is open. The flakes are not normal, Not sure what they are, possibly the PO put some sort of stop leak in it.

      It does look like that stop leak shit. One might think it could be water pump shavings from a bad bearing too. (although, I've never seen it)
      Don't know why they call it Hamburger Helper, stuff does just fine by itself........

      My long lost love.......1987 FZ700

      Comment


      • #4
        Have you tried pulling the stuff out with a magnet? If it works, it’s ferrous. If it doesn’t work, it’s not. Use a vacuum or a q-tip coated in grease to get the glop out. Figure out whether it’s a non ferrous metal or some kinda chemical glop. If it’s metal, you’ve got corrosion or wear, and probably should replace the water pump while you’re at it. If it’s chemical, you’re probably in luck. The PO put stop leak in it to stop the leak you noticed, rather than doing it the right way. After all the flushing you’ve done, most of it should be out, and you can just refill with UJM coolant and check the radiator fill cap again after a tank full of riding.

        I have a question for our resident geniuses, though. Isn’t vinegar an acid? Don’t aluminum and acid always fight, with the acid almost always winning? Because of this preconception of mine, I would only use motorcycle coolant or pure distilled water to flush. Just asking, cause I ain’t sure. Never had to flush, because I change coolant every year; therefore, I don’t worry about getting every last drop of old shit out.

        I wonder if Toyota Long Life Coolant would work?

        Comment


        • #5
          I would use the commercial rad flush, its specifically designed for this purpose. I have used CLR in the past when in a pinch, never had a problem after but I made sure it was flushed very well. I really don't think vinegar will do much if anything. There are plenty of anti-corrosion additive in modern anti-freeze. Every 2 years is a bit of an overkill, but it only takes like a liter and a half of AF, cheap insurance IMO.

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